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The River: The CLYDE’s Trip From Alma to Aurora with big trouble at Andalusia Slough


The riverboat captain is a storyteller, and Captain Don Sanders will be sharing the stories of his long association with the river — from discovery to a way of love and life. This a part of a long and continuing story.

By Capt. Don Sanders
Special to NKyTribune

Seven years ago this week, Everette Dameron, a longtime friend from my hometown of Covington, Kentucky, and I, began a 1,300-mile river trip from Alma, Wisconsin to Aurora, Indiana aboard the sternwheeler, Rafter CLYDE.

Seven years ago this week, Everette Dameron, a longtime friend from my hometown of Covington, Kentucky, and I, began a 1,300-mile river trip from Alma, Wisconsin to Aurora, Indiana aboard the sternwheeler, Rafter CLYDE.

The CLYDE was built in the backyard of Ed Newcomb on the shores of Lake Pepin, in Pepin, Wisconsin.

It was constructed as a tribute to the original steamboat of the same name built in 1870 as a “rafter” that towed long rafts of first-growth Wisconsin White Pine from the mouth of the Chippewa River, above Alma, to sawmills as far south as St. Louis. 

Ed had various progenitors working aboard the original CLYDE, the first iron-hulled steamboat on the Upper Mississippi River; named for the River Clyde in Scotland, the ancestral home of Mr. William Hopkins, the Scotsman supervising construction at the Iowa Iron Works in Dubuque, Iowa.

Though Mr. Hopkins built the rafter as a sidewheel steamer in 1870, he oversaw its reconstruction into a sternwheeler five years later.

Mr. Newcomb’s version, guided and influenced by the celebrated marine architect, the late Captain Alan Bates, designer of the Steamer NATCHEZ of New Orleans, was completed in 2001. It is, quite likely, the most authentic reproduction of the type of steamboat employed in the hectic rafting trade lasting from after the Civil War to around the beginning of the 20th Century.

Ed Newcomb Steering CLYDE

Ev Dameron and I had visited Alma a month earlier, and though I owned another lovely Wisconsin-built boat of about the same size on the Tennesse River near Decatur, Alabama, I could not leave the CLYDE for another buyer once I laid my eyes on her. I consequently bought the handsome paddlewheeler on the 17th of May 2012. 

Leaving the CLYDE at Alma, Everett and I returned home to assemble the gear necessary to bring the boat home by way of the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. A fifteen-foot rental truck was leased to carry all the “necessities” for the lengthy 800-mile adventure down the Upper Mississippi River and another 500 miles against the current of the Ohio River to Aurora.

On such a voyage of uncertainty, everything imaginable was packed aboard the 15-foot U-Haul and carried overland to Alma.

Several essential items scrounged from my other boat, the SUN*FISH, probably saved the CLYDE and crew, later… especially the heavy anchor and stout one-inch nylon anchor line. Without them and BUSTER-the-Skiff, we might not have safely delivered the CLYDE to Aurora.

1875 CLYDE – Ed had various progenitors working aboard the original CLYDE, the first iron-hulled steamboat on the Upper Mississippi River; named for the River Clyde in Scotland, the ancestral home of Mr. William Hopkins, the Scotsman supervising construction at the Iowa Iron Works in Dubuque, Iowa.

After a week of waiting below Alma at the Great River Marina for the river to simmer down after nearing flood-stage resulting from heavy rains before we returned, the CLYDE cast-off before noon on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 with Ed, Ev, and I, along with my trusty mascots, JoJo-the-Monkey and Brownie-the-Bear for the long and arduous trip ahead. 

Brownie and JoJo are my boating mascots, and go everywhere, aboard, I go. They also crewed the casino boat, GRAND VICTORIA II in 1996 when the 330-foot sternwheeler paddled from Utica to Rising Sun, Indiana.

Traditionally, most Captains has his/her mascot. Captain Ernest Wagner had his “Old Crow” on the DELTA QUEEN… I have Brownie and JoJo. 

After Ed Newcomb guided the CLYDE through the backchannel at the Great River Marina for the last time and entered the mainstream of the Mississippi, ahead lay a great adventure.

Brownie & JoJo in Buster Boat. – The CLYDE cast-off before noon on Tuesday, June 12, 2012, with Ed, Ev, and I, along with my trusty mascots, JoJo-the-Monkey, and Brownie-the-Bear for the long and arduous trip ahead.

In reality, it was a race – a race against the insurance company that gave the CLYDE just some 30 days to make the trip home before they canceled the temporary coverage, as I discovered when I called home and Peggy informed me: “The boat insurance expires on the 17th or 19th of July… get the CLYDE home before the deadline.”

Talk about disappointment. There went the side trips on the Illinois and Missouri Rivers I had planned.

Excerpts from the LOG of the CLYDE:

12 June 2012.

LOG

* Entered Mississippi Channel. Southbound Ho!

* Pair of Bald Eagles flew over the boat at Mile 743.8.

* 1225 – Mile 742.4 – Averaging 9 mph.

Everett noted, “The eagles were as common as pigeons on the upper Mississippi.”

* Passed Fountain City Front – U. S. Dredge THOMPSON has gone and in tow with the GENL. WARREN. With Fountain City, WI fading into the distance, CLYDE is firmly set on the long trip ahead.

* 1648 – Queen’s Bluff on the right. 

With two other steersmen aboard the CLYDE, Ed Newcomb took advantage of the opportunity and relaxed in a deck chair and watched the lovely Upper Mississippi River scenery roll by his watery perspective.

After locking through Lock & Dams 5A and 5, the CLYDE was held up waiting for Lock 7. (There is no L&D 6.)

With Two Other Steersmen, Ed Newcomb took Advantage – With two other steersmen aboard the CLYDE, Ed Newcomb took advantage of the opportunity and relaxed in a deck chair and watched the lovely Upper Mississippi River scenery roll by his watery perspective.

* *1740 – Awaiting for Lock 7 – Towboat in the chamber… so we faced-up into the current above the lock and came ahead on a slow bell – nice handling.

* 1820 – Entered Lock – floated with a 2-foot drop.

* 1840 – Departed

* 1845 – I-90 Bridge

* 1900 – RR Bridge.

End of the First Day. 

* Landed at Pettibone Boat Harbor (Mi. 696.8) for the night. $50.00 fee. 

* 51.1 miles passed under the keel.

Everett “made” his first lock with the CLYDE at Lock 8, Genoa, WI.

Wed. 13 June 2012.

LOG

* Up at 0530 – Great breakfast prepared by Ev! Ready for another interesting day.

* 0715. Departed Pettibone Boat Club.

* 0815. Brownsville Bay Lt. 7 1/2 mph.

* 0940 -Genoa, WS, the birthplace of my other boat, the SUN*FISH, formerly the NEW DAY, built by Joe Reynolds of Genoa; originally named MARY R. for his mother, Mary Reynolds. Legend has it that the MARY R. towed coal for the steam plants in the area after being built upon these shores in 1977.

Capt. Don on Roof, Genoa Lock 8 – Thanks to a suggestion by Capt. Ike Hastings, the CLYDE has mooring kevels (cleats) on the roof; making lockage much more accessible as one person can man both the pilothouse and tend the lines.

* Lock 8 – 0950 to 1021 – Waited for two rental houseboats. Rental houseboats are all over the river, and regardless of weather and river conditions, these over-sized crafts fulfill the vacationers’ dreams. But, as soon as the lower gates sprang were open, the more powerful houseboats overtook the CLYDE and disappeared into the distance.

Everett “made” his first lock with the CLYDE. Thanks to a suggestion by Capt. Ike Hastings, the CLYDE has mooring kevels (cleats) on the roof; making lockage much more accessible as one person can man both the pilothouse and tend the lines.

* 1230-Lancing, Iowa Bridge on 90-degree turn – so glad this is the CLYDE and not the AMERICAN QUEEN. Before the trip, Lancing was the farthest the CLYDE had been downstream. As this is the most far south the CLYDE has been on the Mississippi River; every turn of the wheel makes history for the perky sternwheeler.

* GENL. WARREN passed upbound after delivering Dredge THOMPSON to Prarie du Chen.

Later, the CLYDE passed the Lady Luck Casino and John Jacob Astor’s former fur-trading town of McGregor, Iowa. We had hoped to stop in McGregor and visit with a former AVALON crewmate, and longtime friend, John M. “Corky” Bickel, but under the circumstances, we were not able to stop. My apologies to Corky.

Lancing, Iowa Bridge on 90-degree turn – so glad this is the CLYDE and not the AMERICAN QUEEN. Before the trip, Lancing was the farthest the CLYDE had been downstream. As this is the most far south the CLYDE has been on the Mississippi River; every turn of the wheel makes history for the perky sternwheeler.

Afternoon- Cloudy – Hot wind upstream all day.

* Wind-burned face from heading into the wind all day. We will try to make Lock 10 around 1900; then look for a tie-up for the night.

* Lock 10 made in a hard blow. CLYDE. took a hard hit on the bow when I could not get the bow-thruster engaged. No apparent hurt, but my books were knocked over.

* Landed at the “615 Gas & Fishing Dock,” Guttenberg, IA @ 2000. Lashed in for the night. 

* Kathy Lake, former DELTA QUEEN “River Rat” came down to visit.

* Nice, restful sleep.

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Landed at the “615 Gas & Fishing Dock,” Guttenberg, IA @ 2000. Lashed in for the night.

LOG

* Took on 13 gal diesel. $25.00 dock fee.

* 0600- Ed checked engine – used some oil yesterday with the hydraulics working so strong steering into the wind and engine running hard.

* 0820- started engine for warm-up.

* Departed 615 Marina

* Passed Cassville Ferry (Time not indicated.)

* Faced very strong headwind all the way down.

We tied up to the pristine dock, though it was not yet opened; expecting, at any minute, to be told to leave, no one did. We reckoned it was because the CLYDE fit in so well with the other displays at the National River Museum and Aquarium.

* Lock 11 @ 1319.

* Departed Lock 11 @ 1325. Bumped head… again.

A sternwheeler, and CLYDE is no exception, wants to turn its stern into the wind.

Once we slowed down inside the lock chamber, the stern came around into the wind and being so close to the concrete lockwall, the nose soundly rapped the wall. After that hard bump, I promised NOT to hit the head again, and though the CLYDE pulled the same stunt at other locks, the bow was never allowed to slam into another lockwall. 

* Hwy Bridge US 61 and RR Bridge (above Dubuque, IA) @ 1341.

* Entered Dubuque, IA Ice Harbor @ 1400.

* Docked at new, uncompleted, City Municipal Dock @ 1415. Mi. 579.5.

At Le Claire, IA – Above the TWILIGHT.

We tied up to the pristine dock, though it was not yet opened; expecting, at any minute, to be told to leave, no one did.

We reckoned it was because the CLYDE fit in so well with the other displays at the National River Museum and Aquarium that everyone thought our authentic-looking sternwheeler belonged on exhibit.

Though we anticipated impending eviction from the unfinished harbor, instead, docents at the museum began telling visitors about the original CLYDE, built at this very place in 1870 as the first iron-hulled steamboat on the Upper Mississippi River and pointed at our boat to illustrate their narratives. 

Ed Newcomb left the CLYDE soon after we landed; leaving Ev and me “on our own.” 

CLYDE.’s crew ready to continue on after the temporary repairs to the paddlewheel were finished.

Everett and I toured the museum, also the home of the National River Hall of Fame. There, we saw portraits of Captain Wagner, Betty Blake, and Captain Fredrick Way, Jr., all of whom I knew and worked with on the river.

* Hooked up electric and enjoyed a restful night’s sleep courtesy of the City of Dubuque. 

Friday, 15 June 2012

LOG

* Up at 0515 -Prepared to leave Dubuque – coffee made.

* Departed 0600 – TWILIGHT on city dock outside ice harbor.

Cribbed “helper” onto an arm with the end rotted-out. (Two “helpers” were placed into the wheel and they held solidly until the arms were replaced soon after arriving in Aurora… over a thousand river miles from Le Claire.)

The Clyde passed the M/V KEVIN MICHAEL, formerly the MARK EASTIN, a towboat I steered under the tutelage of Captain Bill Davis of M/G Transport in the early 1970s. 

* Lock 12: 0905 to 0915. The Upper Mississippi River on the upper side of the dams can be miles wide – and three-feet deep in most places.

* 1330- Passed “smelly’ Pelican Island above Lock 13.

* Passed Clinton, IA @ 1530. Made 83 miles, so far, today.

* Landed at LeClaire, IA above the M/V TWILIGHT, a twin-screw excursion boat, built in 1987 by Leevac Shipyards, Jennings, LA (hull) and owner, Henry, IL. 156 X 29. Cummins KTA19-GC1 diesel drives, Newage 300 kW generators, 1000 hp. Capacity: 146 passengers. Owned by Sangamon Packet Co., Petersburg, IL in 2000.

After several attempts, we finally slipped into the lock where Judy Patch, a well-known steamboat buff and all-around “river lady,” was on the lockwall waiting to see the CLYDE.

* Found a broken end of a wheel arm – usually under water. Also, some loose keys – will try to brace the arm, but do not intend to “over-do it”.

Sat., 16 June 2012. Cloudy, Warm, Showers

LOG.

* At Le Claire, IA – Above the TWILIGHT

* Up at 0430.

* Rigged paddlewheel with the stage. 

* Tied down the wheel.

* Cribbed “helper” onto an arm with the end rotted-out. (Two “helpers” were placed into the wheel and they held solidly until the arms were replaced soon after arriving in Aurora… over a thousand river miles from Le Claire.)

TROUBLE… BIG TIME!
* Engine HOT – Quit 1350.
* On the hook (anchor) 1405.

* 0830- Wheel finished – prepared to depart downbound.

* 6 gal # 2 diesel fuel added to Day Tank.

* 0845- Departed city dock and traveled down LeClaire Canal to Lock 15A. Ev steered an excellent course. 

After departing Lock 15A, the CLYDE passed by the Isle of Capri Casino, Bettendorf, IA., where, in 1992, I got my start on casino boats with this outfit, then called “Steamboat Casino Cruises.” Our gambling boat was the beautiful DIAMOND LADY, sister to the EMERALD LADY, now the BELLE OF CINCINNATI, the pride of BB Riverboats in Newport, Kentucky.

* Lock 15- A nightmare getting into the chamber with gusty winds and motorboats coming out of the lock in such a number that I had to slow and wait until they departed the chamber. As soon as the CLYDE lost momentum, the powerful “draw” of water falling towards the dam pulled the boat towards the precipice, and I had to twist around and shove the CLYDE upstream for another approach. After several attempts, we finally slipped into the lock where Judy Patch, a well-known steamboat buff and all-around “river lady,” was on the lockwall waiting to see the CLYDE.

After the CLYDE departed Lock 15, the boat became sluggish and, according to the log entry:

* TROUBLE… BIG TIME!

* Engine HOT – Quit 1350.

* On the hook (anchor) 1405.

* Squall With 50 MPH Winds.

* Limped into Andalusia Slough and blew onto a mud bank in the wind.

A 50-mph rain squall slammed the CLYDE, driving it onto a mud flat. With a falling river, the CLYDE may well have spent the summer grounded there, high and dry with grass growing beneath the hull.

After the engine overheated on the main course of the river and we dropped the anchor, it soon became evident that the CLYDE was in the busy channel of the Mississippi.

Seeing a nearby entrance to the Andalusia Slough, we waited until the engine cooled enough to restart and limped on with minimal power into the slough expecting the current to slacken, but, instead, it was even faster inside the narrow confines of the backwater.

It was then that a 50-mph rain squall slammed the CLYDE, driving it onto a mud flat. After the storm passed, help came in the guise of the first of those who suddenly appeared whenever assistance was sorely needed – folks we soon called, “CLYDE’s Angels.”

A powerful ski-boat gratefully pulled our sternwheeler off the mud flat; otherwise, with a falling river, the CLYDE may well have spent the summer grounded there, high and dry with grass growing beneath the hull.

* Hydraulic fluid in tank at 3”. (Normal level is 12 to 14 inches.)

* Hydraulic fluid in center bilge.

Anchored in Andalusia Slough – Here to Stay… for awhile.

(Note: CLYDE. NEVER caused an oil spill. The errant hydraulic fluid was carried onboard inside the hull until after the journey and disposed of properly.)

* Lit and displayed MARJESS oil lamps – burned bright all night.

* Ev called BoatUS – “They are looking for a towing boat,” he was told. 

* Exhausted. Went to bed early. Did not post on Facebook.

A journal of the adventure was posted each day on the first “Rafter CLYDE” Facebook page, but once this trouble began, entries were not published but kept quiet until a better understanding of our situation was determined. 

The CLYDE and crew were alone in a world of pain on a troubled river far from home. 

(To be continued.)

Captain Don Sanders is a river man. He has been a riverboat captain with the Delta Queen Steamboat Company and with Rising Star Casino. He learned to fly an airplane before he learned to drive a “machine” and became a captain in the USAF. He is an adventurer, a historian, and a storyteller. Now, he is a columnist for the NKyTribune and will share his stories of growing up in Covington and his stories of the river. Hang on for the ride — the river never looked so good.


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One Comment

  1. Connie Bays says:

    Exhilarating journey that I wish I could have been part of. Can’t wait for the next installment of the story, to continue the ride!

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