Chef John Foster: Rain, rain, rain — puts a wet twist to farm-to-table eating but we have to adjust
The rains have been coming fast and furious for days now, somewhat against what most August weather is like in Kentucky. Usually, around this time of year, the sprinklers are going non-stop and the farmers are struggling to maintain their thirsty fields through extensive irrigation.
Not so this year as most of what I hear is an exasperated plea for some dry weather to harvest in, or at the very least...
Chef John Foster: Aw, pumpkins already; seasons wane but summer’s vegetable variety will be missed
I saw my first pumpkin of the season in a neighbor’s front yard and the realization hit me that fall is coming.
One of my farmers delivered an order to me this weekend with the warning that they would probably not have any more squash and zucchini this season.
Sitting out on my porch this morning at 5 a.m. you could hear the clock tick, and the wheel slowly turn. Into one season and out of...
Chef John Foster: Slow down, stop, reset; embrace the career or walk away? As a chef, find the balance
There comes a time, in every school quarter, when the culinary students slow, and then stop. Some reset, some stagger through, and some never get started again.
It’s the same thing in every school, but in a technical school such as culinary, it can mean the difference between embracing the career or walking away.
Sometimes it’s the ability and the willingness to soldier on, to slog through the...
Chef John Foster: Trying all kinds of options for making the most of watermelon and cantaloupe
I’ve never been much for the watermelon, cantaloupe buzz. It starts to build this time of year, like the cicadas in my magnolia tree, but by most standards, it doesn’t last as long as most summer produce.
People are passionate about it, and the advent of the melon season sure does stir people up. Don’t get me wrong, I do love watermelon and cantaloupe, mostly for the refreshing nature...
Chef John Foster: Peaches, peaches, peaches — grilled, roasted, baked, poached (and fresh) are great
I blame it on the canned peaches of my childhood, the soft grey masses of syrupy, sugary fruit that tasted of metal and stale water. With the texture of dense, soggy bread and the viscosity of 10W40, there was an overwhelming feeling of queasiness every time I heard a can being opened and slid into a bowl, like a gator sliding back into the swamp.
When my mother canned fresh peaches, the results were...
Chef John Foster: Some creative, tasty options for using all that basil growing in your garden
If your garden is like mine, your basil is at this point more of a bush than a plant! Mine started producing early and hasn’t let up. After a brief lull in the very hottest part of the late spring, I thought we might get burnt. But basil is incredibly resilient and like most near weeds it’s hard to kill. From the constant kitchen use at The Sage Rabbit to quarts of pesto for a menu item, you...
Chef John Foster: Revisiting the ‘incredible edible egg;’ why they belong in balanced, healthy diet
It was at one time “the incredible edible egg,” a multi-purpose package of nutrition and energy. Capable of singlehandedly replacing everything you might choose for breakfast with a single magic bullet of goodness and light.
This notion, of course, was ripe for a takedown, nothing could be this perfect. And so, like most icons it has suffered some setbacks over the years, going underground...
Chef John Foster: An amazing experience in Spain, enjoying the people, the scene and the fantastic food
Spain, was mind-blowing, a trip of a lifetime for me. Prime location in the Basque region, two must-see locations in Bilbao and San Sebastian. From the Guggenheim Museum to the gilt-edged romanticism of a seaport city, it was in many ways eye-opening. It was also a much-needed break and an anniversary with the one person in the world who probably appreciated it more than I did: my wife of 30 years....
Chef John Foster: Seasons press on and so do chefs; the most creative are trained as craftsmen and artists
The sun turns over again and the seasons press on. It’s summer, officially on the 21st of June, but it felt like it on and off since April.
The garden sensed it long ago, and some vegetables have just disappeared for the year, waiting until the weather, and the time is right again.
Chefs move on as well, sometimes beating the bushes this time of year for the first of the summer vegetables to...
Chef John Foster: Bourdain’s sudden death a cause for self-reflection, his legacy filled with purpose
I’ve been asked several times in the last week to comment on the passing of Anthony Bourdain. The morning the news broke I was far too stunned to say anything, and as the week progressed and the tributes poured in, I struggled to find the words to adequately express myself.
It was only after some serious self-reflection that I discovered the reason for my reticence; Chef Bourdain’s life...
Chef John Foster: ‘Convenience over quality’ debate mixes in cost, availability, and even climate
There are subtle changes this time of year, things dropping in and out without a lot of fanfare and hype. The speed at which some of these products go through the market is astonishing, and makes it that much more intimidating to try and buy and eat local.
Just when I’m used to getting my asparagus, it’s gone from the market. It would be so much easier if it’s there when I need it....
Chef John Foster: It’s finals time for student chefs learning balance between risk-taking, technique
Practical finals are here, with students bent over their tables frantically working away on knife cuts, sauce work, and plate designs. This is when culinary school gets “real” for most of the kids, their first taste of trial under fire when they must make decisions that affect their grades.
And believe me, grades are important to some because they determine ranking, scholarships and a point...
Chef John Foster: Yummmm, nothing like fresh summer strawberries to tempt the tastebuds
The image of the strawberry, bright red, plump and glistening with morning dew permeates early summer like a beacon. It says welcome to the warm weather, the summer vacation of mind and body, a sigh of relief that the cold grey weather has finally gone.
The first of many berries that will grace our tables this season it holds a place of dominance that few other fruits can.
With the exception of the...
Chef John Foster: Summer deluge hits markets, take advantage while you can, especially asparagus
The spigots have been cranked wide open, and the summer deluge has begun to hit the markets and then my restaurant tables. Multiple items that were just a whisper last week arrive almost daily at my kitchen door and the loading dock of the school.
Greens, fresh herbs, strawberries, spinach, mushrooms, tomatoes, leeks and green garlic are now all ably represented on menus around the city. If you’re...
Chef John Foster: Now serving local tomatoes, remarkably, and they are full of flavor and texture
It never ceases to amaze me when every spring for several years now, I’m serving local tomatoes in the same week that I’m planting tomatoes in my garden. Remarkable really when you think about how long our growing seasons have stretched, even in the last few years.
While these tomatoes are not as full and ripe as the ones in July and August, they are a burst of color and a flavorful addition...
