At the risk of being pounded by biblical storms and incessant plagues, I wish Mother Nature would make up her mind as to how she wants winter to proceed.
Columns about stews and soups and braises have in recent days been shelved to concentrate on cooking in late December’s 70 degree days. Once I decided on a topic, the temperatures plummeted and now people are talking 1-3 inches of snow for this week. How to bridge this gap is always a conundrum for me as the weather in Kentucky never really settles down into much of a routine.
I do know that the farmers who supply me with product have settled into their off-season routine, which doesn’t equate to a vacation, simply work that is re-directed. They do continue to grow and harvest, note the beautiful shitakes and the greens I got this week. They clean and repair and assess for the next year which for most of them is just a continuation of the year they just finished.
Mention a calendar to a farmer almost any time of year and they aren’t thinking the boxes on a page but the grids on their fields and pastures. In just about all cases there is something percolating, whether the snow flies or the sun warms the high tunnels.
It’s in that spirit that I feel the need to remind you all again that even if the local produce is light this time of year, it’s still wise to eat in season. I know that means root vegetables, greens and folic rich broccoli and Brussel sprouts but hey, wasn’t one of your New Year’s resolutions to eat more healthy?
While you’re eating seasonally, there is also the opportunity to indulge a bit in pantry building and include some specialty items to spice up a soup or pasta on a cold winter’s night. Of course if you can your own vegetables, dry you own herbs or freeze seasonal fruit for the winter you are already in tune with the pantry concept.
If all you have right now is a bag of chips and a jar of salsa you have some work to do! Start with the basics like pasta, grains, and rice and tomato products. I keep several types of dried beans and some canned beans as well. Dry beans require soaking and cooking so I reserve those for the recipes I know I can spend some time on.
Even if the local produce is light this time of year, it’s still wise to eat in season. That means root vegetables, greens and folic rich broccoli and Brussel sprouts
I keep plum tomatoes and a can of paste on hand as the combination of both will accomplish just about any job I need a canned tomato to do. Keep Arborio rice (for risotto) some brown rice and perhaps a jasmine of basmati rice in sealed bags or jars to prevent any contamination. As you branch out, consider what you like to eat and also what you may want to sample.
Don’t buy large jars or cans if possible, no one wants to eat artichoke hearts for a month but they are nice for a quick salad or as an addition to a hearty winter pasta. I buy the ones packed in olive oil as they can also serve as a quick snack with some crusty baguette.
Canned pimentos are a handy addition to a winter pantry. Unless you’ve frozen some summer peppers, they are the next best option for adding flavor and color to that winter chili, avoid the $3 red pepper that tastes like the fridge. Every once in a while I like hearts of palm, a little known ingredient that may be hard to find. It is literally the heart of a specific palm tree grown just for that purpose.
The good ones are slightly chewy, off white and packed in water. They have a sweet woody flavor and are exceptional with citrus based vinaigrettes in a salad.
I have tins of sardines, good balsamic and olive oils. Dry spices should be purchased whole and in small quantities as they will turn flavorless and sometimes rancid if ground and stored for long periods. Get yourself a good coffee/spice grinder or a mortar and pestle. Make your own masalas, the basis for any good curry, don’t rely on bottled spice rubs.
Still have pantry room? Stock up on some dried fruits, a small amount of whole nuts that you will transfer to air tight containers and store in the cooler darker parts of the pantry. With these items and some good oatmeal make yourself some granola or a “cowboy” cookie. For that you will need to have some chocolates, a mixture that ranges from milk to dark and may be used for baking and for snacking.
It’s good sometimes to finish a winter’s meal with a little chocolate and a clementine instead of a big piece of cake or bowl of ice cream. The important point to all this is not the stocking up part but the part where you actually use the stuff.
Don’t buy large quantities, keep things properly sealed and buy with a purpose. Whether you read a recipe in this column or see it on television, do a little research before you purchase. Plan a few meals and buy from that list. Challenge yourself to try new things and buy from that list as well.
Understand that the week is about speed and efficiency and the weekend hopefully is about exploration and discovery. What stops all of this in its tracks is if your cupboards are bare.
There are other ingredients to finish the stocking project; coffees and teas, condiments like jams and jellies. These can be multi-purpose and save loads of time while providing day to day use.
Every pantry will be different, every season will have a different set of items that take center stage. Experiment, keep a log of what works and doesn’t, (by the way you can use that when you go shopping) and expand to fill your anticipated needs, wants and desires. It’s a great way to be prepared and avoid the panic of what to do at mealtime, and it will save you from the drive thru window.
John Foster is an executive chef who heads the culinary program at Sullivan University’s Lexington campus. A New York native, Foster has been active in the Lexington culinary scene and a promoter of local and seasonal foods for more than 20 years. The French Culinary Institute-trained chef has been the executive chef of his former restaurant, Harvest, and now his Chevy Chase eatery, The Sage Rabbit, in Lexington.
To read more from Chef John Foster, including his recipes, click here.
