It’s hard to imagine that we are a few days away from 4th of July.
The penultimate party of the summer is upon us and we can still find beets and carrots, broccoli and cauliflower readily available in the farmer’s markets around town.
Next to the peaches and corn from Georgia and South Carolina are beautiful golden beets from Elmwood Stock Farm, candy onions from Blue Moon Farm, and multiple types of mushrooms from local growers and foragers alike.
If you haven’t visited a farmer’s market in a few weeks consider yourself warned, all of a sudden the diversity is stunning. That is the magic of seasons, they can sneak up on you and provide the pleasant surprise every once in a while.
Consider that your 4th of July picnic will probably revolve around the basics; burgers and dogs, potato salad, corn and beans or bean salad and watermelon.
If you’re a local first foodie you may be out of luck with some of the higher profile items on that picnic menu. Cool, wet springs do not nurture corn and beans as well as they should. Watermelon is still agonizingly out of arm’s reach, baby potatoes are just being dug. Peaches, apples and berries may be available in spots but they don’t truly flood the market until later in July and even then they come in waves and recede just as quickly. If your focus is on trying to stay local with the fourth then there are some considerations that must be met.
Grind you own burger using the local meat producers as a supply. If time is of the essence there are local companies that have their own local burger. Dogs are a bit different as they require more skill with the grinder and can be a bit tricky because of the full emulsion needed to truly make a nice hot dog. Once again there are several local producers of sausage and hot dogs, check them out through the Kentucky Market Maker website or your local butcher may have some insight as well.
With the main course out of the way look for alternatives for things that may not be ready yet. Focus on making a colorful mixed beet salad with candy onions, roasted beets of varied color and a sweet and spicy vinaigrette. Potatoes are always a versatile choice, either in a salad or in one of my favorite dishes, salt potatoes dressed with mustard and dill. Cucumbers are here in small batches, do your own ice box pickles or cucumber chow chow. Local carrot slaw with toasted pecans and a honey herb glaze served warm or chilled. Green bean salad is also a favorite, oftentimes relegated to a soggy green grey mass at the end of the table. Make it zip with fried ginger and garlic vinaigrette, red onion, almonds and a touch of fresh cilantro (if it hasn’t bolted).
Sweet and Spicy vinaigrette
Your spice can come from various sources but I favor a nice clean cracked black pepper. The floral quality of fresh black pepper goes really well with the sweet earthiness of the beets. Roast the beets covered so they do not dry and shrivel. Peel and dice and toss together at the last minute so as not to muddle the colors.
Vinaigrette:
2 shallots, diced and caramelized in scant olive oil and local honey, just enough to sweeten. Finish the caramelization process with a few large grinds of the pepper mill until the pepper is evident on the shallots. Season the mix with salt and while it is still in the pan add ½ cup of apple cider vinegar. Taste this mix for a balance of sweetness and heat. Adjust accordingly as it will be much more difficult to affect the flavor after you emulsify the mix with oil. Whisk in up to 1½ cups of salad oil, mixed olive oil or for more exotic flavor add in a little walnut oil to the mix. For a more stable emulsion you can use a blender, and or add a bit more honey to help stabilize the vinaigrette.
Salt potatoes should begin with a small red potatoes or small Yukon gold potatoes. Place the potatoes in cold, clean water and bring to a boil. Add at least a half cup of kosher salt for every pound of potatoes, and boil the potatoes until they are tender but not mushy. While the potatoes are finishing mix together fresh dill chopped finely, finely chopped chives or green onions and Dijon mustard. Amounts will vary with the amount of potatoes, the personal flavor profile and whether you are serving these potatoes hot or cold. Cold presentation requires us to season more fully when the product is warm so that the dish has flavor. In any case drain the cooked potatoes and dress them warm with the Dijon mix.
Fried Ginger and Garlic vinaigrette
2 Tbl. of chopped garlic and ginger each
1 Tbl. of sesame oil
½ Tbl. of salad oil
1 tsp. of sambal
1 Tbl. honey
½ cup fresh orange juice
¼ cup fresh lime juice
Fresh cilantro, fresh parsley
Salt and black pepper
Salad oil to emulsify
Fry the chopped garlic and ginger together in the sesame and salad oil over medium heat until the color is golden and the aroma has reached its peak, do not burn! Add the sambal, the honey, and the two juices and bring back to a simmer. Simmer briefly, no more than 2 minutes. Add in the salt and pepper to taste and add to a blender. With the blender running slowly add in up to 2 cups of salad oil or until you get a full emulsion. This is also a good marinade for grilled pork and chicken.
John Foster is an executive chef who heads the culinary program at Sullivan University’s Lexington campus. A New York native, Foster has been active in the Lexington culinary scene and a promoter of local and seasonal foods for more than 20 years. The French Culinary Institute-trained chef has been the executive chef of his former restaurant, Harvest, and now his Chevy Chase eatery, The Sage Rabbit.
To read more from Chef John Foster, including his recipes, click here.
